What to expect from this Multi-Pitch tour?
1. Climb one of the least demanding Triglav north face routes on the mightiest wall in the Julian Alps, 3 km wide, 1 km high and with over 100 climbing routes
2. Distance yourself from the crowds on hiking trails and experience the high mountain world in perfect tranquillity
3. Set out on a multi-pitch alpine climbing adventure and climb on natural passages in a rock, in a roped party without the use of wire ropes
4. Test your skills on an 800-meter high Slovenian route, where scrambling alternates with walks on rock ledges, while some upper sections are more demanding (level III on a UIAA grading system or 5.4 grade on a Yosemite difficulty level)
5. Our professional IFMGA guide knows the Triglav north face as his pocket, so he might make some surprises when he finds new passages in a seemingly invincible wall
6. Have you heard of a story about Tone Pogačnik, a Slovenian Olympic cross-country skier? Well, years ago, the Slovenian national team had been training on the glacier behind a wall. In the fog, Tone skied over the Triglav north wall edge and landed 100 meters lower in a pile of snow. He landed precisely in the Slovenian route area and fortunately he got away without injury.
The Itinerary of this Multi-Pitch – Slovenian Route adventure
In the early morning hours, you will meet with a guide at an agreed location in Bled, from where you take a 30-minute ride to Aljaž Lodge in Vrata Valley. Then you will go on a 1-hour easy hike to the foot of the Triglav north face.
Under the wall, you will rope with a guide, staying in a roped party the entire route. A guide will climb in the lead and you will follow on a tight climbing rope at all times. You won’t use wire ropes for ascending, but you will tread on ledges and clasp on appropriate rock shelves. For warming up, you will scramble the first 20 meters long vertical part, after which the wall becomes more gradual.
The first half of the Slovenian Triglav north face route runs on a ridge from where you can enjoy magnificent views of the alpine landscape and the highest peaks of the Julian Alps. The trade route is steep, but never really difficult. Some places are more exposed where you will have some air under your feet, but there are rock shelves in between where you can rest and stop for breath. In the upper part, you will climb on a more difficult exposed rung and a headwall within the last 20 meters of the wall.
After climbing for 4 to 8 hours and conquering 800 meters of the wall, you will reach the Triglavski podi under Kredarica. If you would like to step on the highest mountain in Slovenia, you can extend the tour to the top of Mt. Triglav. You need to inform us about this beforehand so that a guide can adjust the tour course. If you won’t extend the tour, you will descend “čez Prag” and hike for another 3 to 4 hours to get to Vrata Valley, from where you will drive back to Bled.
When can you join alpine climbing on Multi-Pitch – Slovenian Route?
Multi-pitch trad climbings are available from May to October. We carry out the activity, according to bookings. Start from Bled is very early in the morning, since the tour lasts almost all day and we need daylight. Alpine climbing Triglav north face on a Slovenian route is also suitable for inexperienced climbers and mountaineering enthusiasts who are in good shape. The route is not demanding, as it ranks on the I-II level in the UIAA grading system. There is more challenging terrain only in the shorter upper section, ranking on grade III out of XII.
Multi-pitch equipment rental
We offer equipment rental for multi-pitch climbing. In our office in Bled, you can rent all the needed equipment or just single parts of technical equipment. You can also rent a kit with all the equipment you need for alpine climbing and a guidebook with full descriptions of multi-pitch routes in Slovenia. We will advise you about the equipment and provide you with information about the most suitable multi-pitch route in the Julian Alps. If you aren’t entirely confident in your skills and you don’t have enough experience, we recommend that you go on a tour with an experienced guide, especially if you would like to climb Triglav north face Slovenian route. In case you decide to make a tour alone, without a guide, we have to emphasize that the whole Slovenian route and the whole North Face is very demanding. It is hard to orientate in such a huge wall.
FAQ
How long does it take to climb Slovenia route?
For the tour, it’s best to take the whole day. The tour is divided into:
- Drive to Vrata Valley: 30 minutes
- Hike: 1 hour
- Multi-pitch climbing: 4 – 8 hours
- Descent: 3 – 4 hours
- Drive back to Bled: 30 minutes
How hard is it to climb Mount Triglav on the Slovenian route?
Multi-pitch Slovenian route is the most undemanding climbing route of all Triglav north face routes. The ascent is also suitable for non-mountaineers and climbers with no experience. However, you must be able to hike and climb all day long, which requires some upper body strength and strength in the legs. The guide who accompanies you will lead the way so it will be even easier for you.
Can you climb Triglav without a guide?
Triglav north wall, regardless of the route, can only climb experienced climbers who have a climbing partner and necessary technical equipment and know the route course in the wall.
Are there any extra costs?
There are no extra costs, since transport, equipment, park fees, and a professional IFMGA mountain guide are included in the price.
Is all the needed equipment included in the price?
Yes, all the needed equipment is included in the price. You will receive a fitting size harness and a helmet. A guide will prepare the technical equipment such as a climbing rope, belay device, anchor supplies, locking carabiners and more.
Do I get a guide in the price?
Yes, a professional and experienced IFMGA guide is included in the price.
Is this route suitable for kids?
For children below 14 years it is recommended to choose rock climbing for kids instead of this.
However, we might take a child, younger than 14, on this route, if he or she already has some experience in rock climbing. In this case one previous rock climbing tour with one of our guides will be needed.
Children between 14 and 18 can also do this tour, but they have to be accompanied by one of their parents.