A very popular route due to its enjoyable way of climbing. The route is suitable for beginners as well as for more experienced climbers. The route offers solid rock formation as an alternative to plateau wall.
✔️ Climb one of the least challenging Triglav north face routes on the most impressive wall in the Julian Alps, 1000 meters high, 3000 meters wide and with over 100 trad routes
✔️ Spend an active day away from the crowds on hiking trails and experience the high mountain world in pure serenity
✔️ Head out on a trad multi-pitch climbing adventure and ascent on natural passages in solid rock, in a roped party without using wire ropes
✔️ Put your skills to the test on an 800-meter high short German route, ranking on a difficulty level III+ on a UIAA grading system
✔️ Some exposed parts (IV+ on UIAA grade or 5,6 Yosemite grade) are a bit more demanding, where you will also do some scrambling
✔️ A certified IFMGA guide with years of experience knows the Triglav north wall very well, so he might surprise you when he “finds” new passages in a seemingly impregnable wall
✔️ Did you know that the short German route was first climbed in 1906 and named under the influence of national pride? It was a bit more challenging than the Slovenian route. Soon after, the Bavarians climbed the more demanding route and named it the Bavarian route. The final say had local climbers who climbed the most challenging Gorenjska route.
You will meet with our guide in the early morning hours in Bled, from where you will go on a 30-minute drive to Aljaž Lodge in Vrata Valley. Then you will set out on a hike on not-so-steep terrain and after an hour you will reach the foot of the Triglav north face.
Under the western part of the wall, where the short German route starts, you will rope with the guide and stay in a roped party the entire ascent. On a tight climbing rope, you will follow the guide, who will climb in the lead. When climbing and scrambling you won’t use wire ropes, as you will tread on belay ledges and move ahead looking for solid rock. You will mostly climb off vertically and make stops at a belay station. The first 20 meter long vertical part offers some warm-up scrambling, but then the wall becomes more gradual.
The first half of the route runs on a ridge where you will have the most beautiful panoramic views of the landscape below and the highest peaks of the mighty Julian Alps. Most of the time you will climb on steep yet less challenging parts, except in the upper part of the 20-meter long headwall, where you will ascend on a more difficult exposed rung and do some scrambling. In exposed places, you will have some air under your feet, but there are rock shelves and ledges in between where you can stop for breath and rest a bit.
After trad alpine climbing for 4 to 8 hours on an 800-meter high route, you will reach the Zimmer-Jahn exit near Triglavski podi under Kredarica. By prior arrangement, you can extend the tour to the top of Mt. Triglav and stand on the highest mountain in Slovenia. Otherwise, you will go back and hike for 3 to 4 hours to the Vrata Valley and descend “čez Prag”. In the end you will be driven back to Bled.
Multi-pitch trad climbings are available from May to October. We carry out the activity, according to bookings. Start from Bled is very early in the morning, since the tour lasts almost all day and we need daylight. Alpine climbing Triglav north face on a Slovenian route is also suitable for inexperienced climbers and mountaineering enthusiasts who are in good shape. The route is not demanding, as it ranks on the I-II level in the UIAA grading system. There is more challenging terrain only in the shorter upper section, ranking on grade III out of XII.
In our Bled office, you can rent all the needed equipment for rock multi-pitch alpine climbing. We also offer rental of technical equipment in kits or single parts and an English guidebook. We will advise you about the equipment and provide information about the most suitable multi-pitch routes in the Julian Alps. Equipment rental is intended for experienced climbers with climbing partners. If you aren’t confident in your fitness and not sure about your skills and knowledge, then you should go on an alpine climbing tour with a guide, especially if you would like to ascend on the Triglav north wall.
How long does it take to climb Slovenia route?
Yes you can. But take a whole day for this tour, as the tour divides into:
How demanding is this route on Triglav?
The 800-meter high trad multi-pitch short German route is one of the least demanding routes of all Triglav north face routes. It’s not significantly more challenging than the Slovenian route, as it rates at difficulty level III+ in the UIAA grading system. Some more exposed parts are ranked at IV+ in the UIAA grading system and 5.6 level on a Yosemite category.
Can you climb without a guide?
You need a professional mountain guide for this tour unless you are an experienced climber with a climbing partner and you have all the technical equipment. It is also important to know the climbing route, the area where the route goes and you need a good sense of orientation in such a big wall.
Are there any extra costs?
There are no extra costs since the price includes transport, equipment, park fee, and IFMGA guidance.
Is all the needed equipment included in the price?
Yes, all the needed equipment is included in the price. You will receive a harness and a helmet in your size, and a guide will provide the technical equipment.
Is a guide included in the price?
Yes, a licensed IFMGA guide with many years of experience is included in the price.
Is this route suitable for kids?
For children below 14 years it is recommended to choose rock climbing for kids instead of this.
However, we might take a child, younger than 14, on this route, if he or she already has some experience in rock climbing. In this case one previous rock climbing tour with one of our guides will be needed.
Children between 14 and 18 can also do this tour, but they have to be accompanied by one of their parents.
390,00€
Matevz Vukotic
